Monday, 26 October 2009

A Basic Check List

For the Street-Wise

Auto Auction Buyer



Auto auctions can seem intimidating affairs, even Government auto auctions, but decide your maximum bid price, stick to it, and bidding should be fun, exciting and immensely rewarding!

Remember that most government pre-owned vehicles are better maintained and serviced even compared to most other private cars. Work safety legislation and organizational policies stipulates this behavior. The list below provides a practical step by step checklist/guide to ascertain the condition of any vehicle with no history or service records.

Here are 27 valuable & practical tips which will give you an overview of the condition of the vehicle, especially older vehicles or seized/repossessed vehicles;

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Bald or uneven tire wear (indicates bad alignment, possibly from a wreck).
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Damaged wheel rims on one side of the car only, usually the side not facing the bidders.
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Auto transmission fluid check: It should be a pinkish or very light reddish color, and smell like motor oil. Note: if its dark red or a brownish or smells burnt this a common indicator the transmission might be worn or damaged.
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Engine coolant fluid check: The coolant should be a bright green color, (orange for some). Discoloured fluid with a brownish tint could indicate that fluid replacement is past due or in worst case contains rust deposits from the radiator.
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Engine oil fluid check: Engine oil should be a smooth darker brown or black colour. If it is a milky looking brown, that is an indicator that the oil is mixed with engine coolant, which in some cases be costly to repair.
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Rebuilt title: This usually drops the value of the car by 30%. Vehicle report should state this.
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If all VIN stickers from the doors, hood, trunk, dashboard do not match then the vehicle could have been wrecked or stolen.
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No title present for you to take today: Avoid "title in transit" cars. Check the vehicle history.
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Problem title cars (junked, salvaged, flooded, fire, etc.). Usually shows up in the vehicle report.
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Rusty disk brakes and drums: Indicates the car has sat abandoned for some time (can be normal) or been flooded.
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Check for excessive dimples, scratches, dings, dents, paint chips, especially on bumpers.
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Malfunctioning air conditioning.
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Airbag fraud: fake airbag covers. Hard to catch but the vehicle history will give you an indication what to look for.
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New carpeting for no apparent reason: Could have been flooded or vehicle not well looked after.
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Variations in thickness of the paint. (Requires a digital coating thickness gauge).
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Look for traces of paint over-spray along windshield, engine compartment, inside door edges, along door seams.
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Evidence of leaks or hand applied seal material to plug up window leaks.
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Feel around door edges for leftover evidence of masking tape from body work, and doors that don't line up.
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Loose or crooked windows, or power windows that don't work. Motors can cost over $500 to replace.
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For convertibles: Check convertible top operates correctly.
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Check for excessive exhaust coming out of the muffler.
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Look for evidence of odometer tampering. Mileage is collected every year and shows up in the service/maintenance documentation.
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Excessive mileage for the car's age: This gets overlooked by lots of people. We would recommend that you deduct $0.10 - $0.15 per mile extra from price of vehicle.
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Check the steering wheel: when you move/jiggle it back and forth there should not be any "clunking" noise.
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Check the frame of the vehicle: Any frame damage indicates the vehicle has been involved in a major accident. Look along the vehicle to ensure it is straight.
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Check the pedals: Pedals are not usually changed or replaced so this may give you a hint as to the "real" condition of the vehicle.
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Obvious presentation of vehicle, scratchy paintwork, smoke smell, etc. Use your common sense! Follow your gut instincts. If something does not seem right, do not buy that vehicle!


Consider using a call out auto inspection service. For a fee, qualified mobile mechanics will go out to the car and check it out, test drive it and let you know what they find. Well worth the cost if you'd like more peace of mind. The service should cost approximately $100 or so. However you usually cannot do this on auction day so arrange it for pre-auction inspection day. You will need to confirm with the auction house if any prior test driving is possible as some only allow engine running for insurance and title purposes.

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